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post Chiragh Dilli 26 Jun, 2022

A step in New York/A footfall in Lahore

I lived for a decade in Chicago, where I could only walk in the Midway Plaisance—a wide boulevard with a fat-bellied, grassy middle—in Hyde Park. The 1893 World’s Columbian Exhibition was held in Hyde Park and the Plaisance was a covered walk with concessions and private entertainment decked around it: markets from Algeria and Tunis, an ‘Indian’ village, an Oriental (Chinese) village and theatre, an Indian bazaar, a Moorish palace, a street in Cairo. The official guidebook told the white ‘walkers’ that they should expect to bump into an ‘Indian’ family making their bread or a Pathan sepoy waxing his moustache. Franz Boas, later to lead Columbia’s anthropology department, was the main force behind the 1893 Chicago Fair and had been hired by Frederic Putnam, then director of Harvard University’s Peabody Museum.… Continue reading A step in New York/A footfall in Lahore

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Midway Plaisance Park, 1130 Midway Plaisance, Chicago, IL 60637, USA
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Chiragh Dilli

Chiragh-e-Dilli, or the Lamp of Delhi, was a title given to the fourteenth-century Sufi poet Nasiruddin Dehlavi, from which a neighbourhood in Delhi derives its name, as does this blog. The blog explores, discovers and suggests ways of seeing and writing the city. Delhi for us is not just a field, a backdrop, a grid or a context. We are located and invested in its ‘being and becoming’—it tells us how and what to see, feel and imagine. We can sometimes be found sitting across Bashiruddin Ahmad, drinking endless cups of chai with him, as he draws out meticulous observations on the city. Other times, we are walking through weekly bazaars and haggling for earrings, or catching a battery rickshaw, the metro or a mudrika across the endlessly circular city for a jalebi. We are forever looking for those tiny corners of comfort and conversations, through congested alleyways of life and living, which make the city possible.
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