We arrive in Emmadorp and walk towards the imposing long dike that embraces the Verdronken Land van Saeftinghe like an ancient boundary. Once we reach the top, near Emmahaven, a panorama unfolds that truly reveals the immense scale of this tidal landscape. The horizon seems endless. In the distance, we see a group of walkers returning from a long trek through this vast expanse.

The Verdronken Land van Saeftinghe lies on the border between Belgium and the Netherlands. On the Belgian side, the Prosperpolder in Beveren forms the green heart of the polder landscape, while on the Dutch side, East Zeeuws-Vlaanderen begins. Together they constitute a cross-border nature reserve. Clear-cut boundaries are absent here: dikes, creeks, salt marshes, and mudflats define the rhythm of the landscape. It is a place that arouses curiosity and invites exploration, while at the same time commanding respect. Beneath its apparent tranquillity lies a natural world that can be unpredictable and unforgiving.

Anyone entering the Verdronken Land van Saeftinghe without a guide or proper preparation takes a considerable risk. This is a living tidal landscape, constantly reshaped by the ebb and flow of the tides. Twice a day, the waters of the Western Scheldt surge into the area with remarkable speed. Within a short time, the water level can rise by five to seven metres, causing paths and salt marshes to disappear rapidly beneath the water.

The terrain itself presents another challenge. Deep, ever-shifting channels are surrounded by mudflats and soft silt in which it is easy to sink deeply. Walking quickly becomes exhausting, and anyone who gets stuck may find themselves in grave danger when the tide returns. On top of that, navigation is difficult. The vast landscape contains few recognisable landmarks. Mist, rain, or approaching darkness can make it surprisingly easy to lose one’s way. In Saeftinghe, nature dictates the rules, and anyone who enters does well to respect them.

During one of our previous expeditions through this area, we were accompanied by several unprepared city walkers. Their fashionable ankle boots soon proved to be a poor choice for the treacherous mudflats, while an elegant umbrella had to serve as a walking stick. After only a few steps, it had turned into a heavy staff coated in mud. The silt clung to our boots as though it had no intention of letting us go. Every step demanded effort, every metre felt like a small victory. We returned with tired legs, aching muscles, and clothes that had largely lost their original colour. Yet what remained above all was the overwhelming impression of an untouched landscape, raw, untamed, and breathtakingly beautiful.

It is precisely this untamed nature that makes the Saeftinghe Border Park one of the most remarkable and best-preserved estuarine landscapes in Western Europe. Here, nature, agriculture, recreation, and cultural heritage are not regarded as opposing forces but as interconnected elements of a single, coherent landscape.

The ecological value of the area is difficult to overstate. Where fresh river water meets the salt water of the sea, an exceptionally dynamic ecosystem has evolved, supporting remarkable biodiversity. It is no coincidence that Saeftinghe forms part of the European Natura 2000 network. Its salt marshes and tidal creeks serve as vital nurseries for numerous fish species, while thousands of migratory birds find food and shelter here during their journey along the East Atlantic Flyway.

Agriculture, too, is evolving alongside this changing landscape. Increasingly, farmers are combining food production with nature conservation, experimenting with nature-inclusive farming practices. As the influence of salt water continues to increase, interest in saline agriculture is also growing. At the same time, local products contribute to strengthening the regional economy. The result is a model in which agriculture and nature do not compete but instead reinforce one another. A vision that may well represent Saeftinghe’s greatest strength.

Beyond its ecological significance, the Saeftinghe Border Park also plays an important social role. This cross-border nature reserve brings together local residents, farmers, conservation organisations, public authorities, recreation entrepreneurs, and scientists from both Belgium and the Netherlands. Their collaboration not only strengthens the region’s shared identity but also creates new opportunities for sustainable tourism, environmental education, and local employment.

Even in the Verdronken Land van Saeftinghe, human presence still plays a role, although today it is primarily one of partnership. Cattle graze the salt marshes as part of the area’s conservation management. By keeping reeds and coarse vegetation under control, they help maintain a varied landscape in which a rich diversity of plants, insects, and breeding birds can thrive. 

For this reason, cattle also create a striking and distinctive sight. The French expression boeuf pré-salé, literally “beef from the salt meadows”, originally referred to cattle that grazed on salt-loving vegetation such as glasswort and sea lavender. Following the discovery of elevated PFAS concentrations in the area, however, the cattle are no longer used for beef consumption. They know instinctively where to seek higher ground, moving to safe locations before the incoming tide reaches the marshes. A herd silhouetted on a raised mound is one of Saeftinghe’s most memorable images.

At the foot of the dike stands the Visitor Centre of the Verdronken Land van Saeftinghe. Friendly staff members welcome us at the reception desk. Nearly all guided excursions into the reserve depart from here. The freely accessible exhibition provides an ideal introduction to this unique tidal landscape. It tells the story of medieval villages swallowed by storm surges, explains how the daily rhythm of the tides continues to reshape the land and reveals why Saeftinghe is of immeasurable importance to its plants, fish, and tens of thousands of birds. Through maps, photographs, scale models, and interactive displays, visitors discover the area’s history, its remarkable flora and fauna, and the formation of its salt marshes. 

Younger visitors are equally drawn into the story through treasure hunts and hands-on activities that bring the natural world vividly to life. In this way, the visitor centre becomes much more than the starting point for a walk. It provides the key to understanding why Saeftinghe has become a leading European example of sustainable landscape development.

After our exploration, we end the day at the nearby café Het Verdronken Land. Sofie and her mother, Gina, welcome us with the warmth and hospitality so characteristic of the region. The café stands immediately beside the visitor centre, at the foot of the dike.

Stepping inside feels like entering another era. The interior breathes nostalgia. Everyday objects from times gone by, antique furniture, faded photographs, enamel advertising signs, and an eclectic collection of curiosities fill the space. Many describe it as a cross between an authentic old-fashioned pub and a small folk museum. Most remarkable of all, swallows fly freely in and out of the café. Three nests hang from the ceiling, each sheltering a brood of young birds, while an upside-down umbrella has been suspended below to protect visitors from the inevitable droppings.

It is easy to imagine how this place will come alive during Made of Walking 2026. Within this evocative setting, storyteller Rien Van Meensel will perform her Stories from the Marsh, about how a family managed to survive long ago in the flood-prone Scheldt region. Let yourself be swept away by a landscape of water, mud and mist, a world that, sadly, has almost disappeared. Her words will set the creeks flowing, make the salt marshes breathe once again, and give voice to the people who lived with the water for centuries. As we look around, it almost seems as if her voice is already drifting through the room. A gentle echo from a landscape where past and present continue to merge.